Shopping for Jewelry
How to buy:
Diamonds
Gold
Gemstones
Birthstones
Pearls
Diamonds
The Diamonds Quality Pyramid is a standard guide to help
you compare diamonds. While all diamonds are precious, those closest to the
top of the pyramid -- possessing the best combination of the 4C's: cut, clarity,
carat weight and color -- are the earth's rarest, most valuable and most beautiful
to the eye. Here we will go over each of the 4C's.
CARAT - The Larger a Diamond, the More Rare
A diamond's size is measured in carat weight, and each carat
is equal to 100 points. A .75 carat diamond is the same as a 75-point diamond
or a 3/4 carat diamond. Larger diamonds are found relatively infrequently,
which puts them at the rarest level of the Diamond Quality Pyramid. A larger
diamond is also desirable because its size shows off its fine color and
cut, and therefore its brilliance, to its best advantage.
While larger diamonds are highly prized, diamonds of equal
size may vary widely in value and brilliance, depending on their other qualities
of clarity, cut, and color.
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CLARITY - The Clearer the Diamond, the More Brilliant
A diamond's clarity, refers to any identifying characteristics
that it may have. Virtually all natural diamonds contain these identifying
characteristics, although many are invisible to the naked eye. Under the careful
scrutiny of a jeweler's 10x-magnifying loupe or microscope, natural phenomena
-- called inclusions -- may be seen. These are nature's birthmarks, and they
may resemble tiny crystals, clouds, or feathers.
The less visible the inclusions of
the diamond, the higher the clarity and the more brilliant and valuable it
is -- and the higher it is on the Diamond Quality Pyramid.
Diamonds that are recognized as internally flawless reveal
no such inclusions. Flawless stones are at the peak of the Diamond Quality
Pyramid and are treasured for their rarity and beauty. Diamonds with very,
very tiny inclusions are graded as VVS1 or VVS2. The larger the inclusion,
the lower the grade and the less rare the diamond. Inclusions that can be seen
with the naked eye are graded I1, I2 or I3.
The size, number, color, type and position of these birthmarks
affect a diamond's value. Major inclusions can sometimes interfere with the
path of light that travels through a diamond, diminishing its brilliance and
sparkle and therefore its value.
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COLOR - The More Pure the Color in a Diamond,
the More Valuable
Diamonds are graded by color, starting at D and continuing
through the alphabet. Truly colorless stones that are graded D color, are
treasured for their rarity and value, are placed highest on the Diamond Quality
Pyramid.
While many diamonds appear colorless, they may actually have subtle yellow
or brown tones and these color grades include P and Q. Although still beautiful,
they will be less rare and therefore less valuable. To appreciate the simple
beauty of each individual stone, you should compare diamonds side by side with
a jeweler.
An interesting exception to the color rule above comes in
so-called "Fancy" diamonds. Fancy diamonds come in well defined colors
that include red, pink, blue, green and canary yellow -- and these are highly
prized and particularly rare.
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CUT - The Better Cut a Diamond, the More Brilliant
A well cut or faceted diamond scintillates with
fire and light -- offering the greatest brilliance and value. This is not to
be confused with a diamond's shape.
While nature determines a diamond's clarity, carat weight
and color, the hand of a master craftsman is necessary to release its fire,
sparkle and beauty with a professional cut. When a diamond's is cut to good
proportions, light will reflect from one mirror-like facet to another and disperse
through the top of the stone, resulting in an optimum display of fire and brilliance.
Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow will lose light
that spills through the side or bottom. As a result, poorly cut stones are
less brilliant, less beautiful and certainly less valuable -- than well
cut diamonds higher on the Diamond Quality Pyramid.
For centuries, men and women have discovered that the sparkle
and brilliance of a quality diamond expresses their deepest emotions and symbolizes
their enduring love. Yet with many beautiful diamonds to choose from -- and
with no two exactly alike -- how do you pick the right diamond while spending
wisely? The Diamond Quality Pyramid and the 4Cs, along with the guidance of
a trusted jeweler, will lead you to the answer.
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THE 4Cs - Key to the Diamond Quality Pyramid
To establish a diamond's quality, jewelers examine each of
the 4Cs -- cut, clarity, carat weight and color. The combination of these 4Cs
is what determines the value of a particular diamond. For example, a colorless
diamond is at the top of the Diamond Quality Pyramid in color ... but if it
is lacking in clarity, or is too small, or not well cut, it will be of a lower
value. The finest stones possess the best quality in each of the 4Cs, and
are the most valuable.
You should strive for a stone that offers the
best combination of the 4Cs that you can afford. Knowing a diamond's place
in the Diamond Quality Pyramid will help you to make an informed decision.
Ultimately, you'll discover the unique combination of the 4Cs that makes a
particular diamond the right choice for you. Its beauty and brilliance will
capture the true sentiment of the occasion and will be unforgettable.
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Gold
The desire to own gold dates
back as far as the history of mankind itself. Gold has played an extraordinary
role in every society. In earliest times, it even assumed magical importance.
Gold purity is measured by karats. Karat, sometimes represented
as; "K" or "Kt." should
not be confused with "Carat" which is the unit of measure for gemstone
and diamond. Solid gold as it is found in nature is 24 karat gold.
This pure 24 karat gold is far too soft for use in most jewelry and requires
additional metals, called alloys to be mixed in to make it suitable for jewelry
manufacturing. For instance, 18 karat gold has 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts
alloy, 14 karat has 14 parts pure gold and 10 parts alloy and 10 karat gold
has 10 parts pure gold and 14 parts alloy. 18 karat gold is still soft
but durable enough for wear as jewelry, while 14 karat gold is ideal for bridal
jewelry because it is durable yet soft enough to allow the jeweler to create
fancy settings such as channel and invisible settings.
Of all the world's precious metals, only Gold combines the
basic characteristics that make it a universally and eternally treasured possession.
The naturally intense color and distinctive luster of gold
combine to give this precious metal a unique and enduring brilliance. Gold's
natural beauty is further accentuated by the soft and exquisite shades of color
achieved by combining it with small amounts of other special metals. Common
colors of gold include yellow, white, pink, and green golds - each are exquisite
in its own right. There is wide fashion acceptance of all the colors
and color combinations of gold. One of today's most popular trends features
combining colors of gold - for instance, yellow, white and pink - in jewelry.
Gold is durable. It lasts and lasts. Because it does
not rust, tarnish or corrode, gold virtually lasts forever. An instance of
this everlasting durability is found in the gold coins recovered from sunken
galleons centuries-old - they are as shiny and brilliant as the day they were
cast! When you buy gold jewelry today, you are buying enduring
beauty. Mirroring the enduring properties of the precious metal itself, a
gift of gold has always been the symbol of lasting love and devotion.
Ease of Workability - Jewelers love Gold since it has
the best working qualities of any metal, thereby making it the ideal precious
metal for fine jewelry whose designs are meant to reflect and appeal to so
many different personalities and styles.
When buying gold jewelry, always look for a Karat mark such
as 14k, & 18k
stamped somewhere on each piece to ensure that yours is genuine gold. Europeans
may sometimes stamp their gold pieces with 500 representing 14k or 750 representing
18k.
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Gemstones
Throughout
all civilizations in history, gems have held a fascination and even a legendary
power for women and men. The beauty and romance of Gemstones dates back to
as far as we can trace - to those primitive days when man coveted these precious
gemstones as "charms" or "amulets" to
ward off evil spirits. As man developed and became more sophisticated, the
rarity and beauty of gemstones established them as the ultimate status symbol
to the rich and powerful. Today, the pride and enjoyment of possessing a beautiful
and rare gemstone is as great as it ever has been.
Most gemstones are minerals that have been crystallized as
a result of the high temperatures and pressures exerted by nature on the elements
that form the earth's crust. (Important exceptions: pearl and coral are of
animal origin, and jet and amber are of vegetable origin.)
Although there are over 3,000 minerals found on
earth, only a tiny percentage qualify as "gemstones" due to their
rarity, beauty, color and durability. The most sought after gemstones are transparent
gems, which resemble drops of pure color cut from single crystals. These gems
were once divided into precious and semi-precious categories, but this
is no longer true today. Gem discoveries over the years have added new and
exciting varieties to the traditional gemstone selection of ruby, emerald and
sapphire. Some of these new and more unusual gemstones may command higher prices
than more well known gemstones because of their beauty and rarity. For example,
fine jade and fine opal, tsavorite or alexandrite are often more valuable than
lesser quality diamonds or emeralds.
The category of fine-quality gemstones includes but is not
limited to: alexandrite, amber, amethyst, aquamarine, chrysoberyl, citrine,
garnet, iolite, jade, kunzite, lapis lazuli, moonstone, opal, peridot, sugilite,
spinel, tanzanite, topaz, tourmaline, tsavorite, turquoise and zircon. Each
of these gemstones has a particular style, charm, color and identity.
There are several characteristics that determine the value
of a gemstone:
Color - Of prime importance is the strength and purity
of a gemstone's color. Because there are literally countless shades
of red, blue, green and other colors, you should make your selection
according to your own personal taste. There is no established "right" or "wrong" color
for gemstones.
Cut - The cut of a gemstone is of extraordinary importance
because it allows light to pass through and reflect in the most brilliant way.
The proper cutting enhances the richness of a gemstone's inherent color,
which is what attracts the eye to the gem's beauty.
Clarity - The clarity of a gemstone is an important feature,
although it is important to keep in mind that completely "flawless" gemstones
very rarely occur. Inclusions or birthmarks are inherent in virtually every
gemstone and they are nature's way of adding variety and individuality to a
gemstone. Even the most expensive gemstones typically contain some inclusions.
Carat Weight - A carat is a measure of weight and size. The
larger the carat measurement of a gemstone, the higher its value.
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Birthstones
January February March April May June
July August September October November December
January - Garnet
Garnet is the traditional birthstone for the month of January
and is also the traditional anniversary gemstone for the second year of marriage.
When most people think of garnet, they envision a dark red
garnet. You may be surprised to
learn that garnets are actually found in every color except blue, including
brilliant green tsavorite garnet, raspberry pink rhodolite garnet, and even
orange malaya garnet. In fact, bright red "anthill" garnets
are found in Arizona and rare green damantoid garnets were favored by the Tsars
of Russia.
Garnets are brilliant and durable and will give years
of pleasure. They are very popular because they offer an outstanding price
range to suit every pocketbook and they also offer variety in appearance to
suit every taste.
Legend has it that Noah hung a large garnet in his ark for
illumination. Garnets also reportedly give its wearer guidance in the night,
protection from nightmares, and according to the Egyptians, is an antidote
for snake bites and food poisoning. Garnets were also thought to have a
special affinity with the blood.
As with all gemstones, care should be taken to protect it from scratches,
sharp blows, and extreme temperature changes.
Garnet are found in the India, Africa, Sri Lanka, Brazil
and U.S.A.
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February - Amethyst
The recognized birthstone for February, the Amethyst is also
the traditional
anniversary gemstone for the sixth year of marriage.
Amethyst is a variety of quartz, and it's color varies from
pale lilac to rich, deep
purple shades. A choice Amethyst has a deep medium purple with rose-colored
flashes giving it beauty and fire. Due to its abundance, Amethysts are readily
available in all sizes and shapes. It is durable and can be worn every day.
Amethyst is said to have a sobering effect on the wearer.
Greek legend even states that it will prevent intoxication when worn! Not only
on those who indulged but also on those over-intoxicated by the passion of
love.
It is also a symbol of peace, protection and tranquility. Some say it
will prevent baldness and improve the complexion, as well as protect the
wearer from treason and deceit.
Due to royalty's love for the color purple, Amethyst are found in abundance
in ancient Greek and
Egyptian ornaments, as well as the British Crown Jewels.
It is found mainly in Brazil, Uruguay and Zambia.
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March - Aquamarine
The traditional birthstone for March, Aquamarine is also the
traditional anniversary gem for the 19th year of marriage.
A choice piece of aquamarine contains a refreshing pastel sea
blue color.
Those with a clear blue color without green or gray are generally the most
valuable.
Aquamarine is a big, durable gemstone readily available in
larger sizes and usually cut in rectangular or oval shapes to accentuate its
beauty.
Included with emerald, the Aquamarine is a member of the important beryl family.
Said to aid seafarers in ancient times, the Aquamarine is an
excellent gift suggestion for
nautical buffs or one who takes frequent cruises.
The dreaming of aquamarine is said to signify the making of new friends;
to wear aquamarine earrings brings love and affection. It is a
universal symbol of youth, hope and health.
To maintain the brilliance of this beautiful gemstone, the
Aquamarine should be
immersed in jewelry cleaner or lukewarm soapy water and cleaned
with a small bristle brush.
Aquamarine is found mainly in Brazil, Nigeria, Zambia, Madagascar and Ukraine.
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April - Diamond
The traditional birthstone of April, and the most popular
gemstone for engagement rings, the diamond is the traditional anniversary gem for the 10th and 60th years
of marriage.
Stemming from the Greek word "adamas," diamond means "unconquerable," suggesting
the eternity of love.
Since ancient Greece, diamonds have been the traditional symbol of love .
Discovered about 2,500 years ago, the ancients of India believed them to be
splinters from the stars.
Most commonly colorless, diamonds are occasionally found with
a strong, bright color-green, red, pink,
blue, canary yellow and amber. These colored diamonds are rare & highly-prized.
The
most durable of gemstones, care should still be taken to protect a diamond
from sharp blows.
Use household chemicals with caution as they may discolor or damage the mounting.
Before cleaning, soak in a half-and-half solution of cold water and ammonia
for 1/2 hour, then
clean using a jewelry cleaner or a lukewarm soapy water and a small bristle
brush.
A home ultrasonic machine with its recommended cleaner is another alternative.
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May - Emerald
The birthstone for the month of May, the emerald is also the
anniversary gemstone for the 20th and 35th years of marriage.
One of the most highly-prized of all the gems, the emerald's
name comes from the Greek "smaragdos" which means green stone. Emeralds
come in various shades of green, the most
prized being pure grass green.
Emeralds are characterized by a garden of included crystals
trapped within known as the "jardin,"
due to the lovely patterns resembling foliage when placed under magnification.
Found only in small sizes, a flawless, clear emerald is very rare and highly-prized.
Small to medium sized stones are often faceted in the "step" or emerald
cut.
The gem is also lovely when cut into a cabochon or dome shape. Sometimes emeralds
are even carved.
According to legend, to wear an emerald not only cured a wide
range of ailments, including low intelligence, poor eyesight and infertility,
but also granted the wearer omniscience.
As part of the normal fashioning process, most emeralds are
immersed
in colorless oil or resin so small voids are not as noticeable.
Care should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows,
household chemicals, and extreme temperature changes.
Emeralds are found mainly in Colombia, Brazil, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
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June - Pearl
The birthstone for the month of June, the pearl is also the
traditional
anniversary gemstone for the 3rd and 30th years of marriage.
The product of an oyster's defense mechanism, a pearl is created
when a foreign irritant is introduced either by man (cultured) or naturally.
The oyster, in turn, surrounds it with layers of a substance called
nacre. The resultant form is the exquisite gemstone know as pearl.
Pearls come in a wide range of colors. They should ideally
be free from skin blemishes.
The larger and more perfectly round the shape the better.
Also, the higher the luster, also known as the "orient," the more
valuable the specimen.
Besides the popular round shape, there are also a number of
variations on the pearl including
the fresh water (elongated in interesting shapes and colors),stylish mabe (large
hemispherical cultured pearls)
and South Sea (large cultured pearls 10mm and up from Australia's and Indonesia's
waters).
Pearls traditionally symbolize modesty, chastity and purity.
The wearing of this stone can also signify a happy marriage.
Avoid household chemicals, cosmetics, hair sprays, and perfumes.
Don't use ultrasonic cleaners. Wash with mild soap and water and store in a
protective chamois pouch or tissue paper.
As an alternative to the pearl, Moonstone is sometimes worn
by those born in June
due to its resemblance to the pearl.
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July - Ruby
The birthstone for July, the ruby is also the traditional
anniversary gemstone for the 15th and 40th year of marraige.
Known as the "Lord of the Gems" because of
its rarity and
beauty, the word "ruby" is derived from the Latin word "ruber",
which simply means red.
Many believed rubies possessed an inner flame which burned eternally.
Like sapphire, the ruby is a variety of corundum and only exists as a true
red in color.
The most prized color is a vivid, almost pure spectral red with a very faint
undertone of blue.
Legend has it that the ruby protects their owners from all kinds of misfortune.
A fine ruby assured the owner he would live in harmony with his neighbors.
It would also protect his stature in life, his home and land.
Its protective powers were said to intensify when set in jewelry, and worn
on the left side.
As part of the customary fashioning process, virtually all
rubies are
heated to permanently improve their color and appearance.
As with all gemstones, care should be taken to protect it from
scratches and sharp blows.
The finest rubies haved been mined in Burma since ancient times.
Other sources include Thailand, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Kenya, Tanzania, Cambodia,
Afghanistan and India.
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August - Peridot
The birthstone for August, the peridot is also the accepted
anniversary gemstone for the 16th year of marriage.
A good specimen should be a lively lime green, without a brownish or olive
cast.
Peridot is the product of volcanic action. Tiny peridot crystals
are sometimes combed from the black sands of Hawaii.
It is found largely in Burma and the U.S. in the San Carlos
Apache Indian Reservation near Globe, Arizona, where it is mined by
native Americans.
Favored by pirates, Peridots were considered to be powerful
amulets against all evil, and when set in gold, were said to protect the wearer
from
the terrors of the night. Peridots were said to have medicinal uses also. When
fashioned
into a chalice, medicines drunk from it were said to have been intesified.
Care should be taken to protect peridot from scratches, sharp
blows, household chemicals and extreme temperature changes. Do not use a home
ultrasonic machine for cleaning.
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September - Sapphire
The birthstone for September, the sapphire is also the traditional
anniversary gem for the 5th and 45th years of marriage.
Especially popular in deep blue, the sapphire is a variety
of corundum and comes in all colors except red (the
red variety being known as ruby) . Fancy colored sapphires include pink, green,
orange, and
golden yellow are especially magnificent when set in a bracelet or necklace.
The stone's durability, combined with its beauty, makes it
the perfect alternative for an engagement ring.
Prince Charles chose a blue sapphire for Princess Diana's engagement ring.
Sapphires were honored by ancient priests and sorcerers above
all gems, for it was said to enable them to interpret oracles and foretell
the future.
The Ten Commandments were believed by ancients to have been written on a sapphire
tablet.
Marriage partners put great faith in the stone because the sapphire refused
to shine when worn by the wicked or impure.
If its luster dimmed, one would know his or her spouse had been unfaithful.
Virtually all blue, yellow and golden sapphires are heated
to permanently produce or
intensify their color as part of the customary fashioning process.
As with all gemstones, care should be taken to protect it from
scratches and sharp blows.
Sapphire is found in Sri Lanka, Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar
(Burma), Kasmir, Australia, Nigeria, Kenya, Tanzania, China and the U.S.
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October - Opal
The birthstone for October the opal is also the traditional
anniversary
gemstone for the 14th year of marriage.
The well-known Roman naturalist Pliny described opal
as "made up of
the glories of the most precious gems... the gentler fire of the ruby,
the rich purple of the amethyst, the sea-green of the emerald,
glittering together..."
White opal has a white or light body color with flashes of
many colors. Black opal has a black, dark blue, dark green or gray body
color with vivid flashes of color such as red, pink and bright green.
A symbol of hope, innocence and purity through the ages. Young,
fair-haired girls wore opals in their hair to
protect its lovely blond color during the Middle Ages. Medieval writers believed
opal could
render its wearer invisible when the need arose. It was also said that it improves
eyesight as well as banish evil.
Opals are especially beneficial for children, amusements, friendships and
feelings.
Care should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows,
household chemicals, and extreme temperature changes. Do not
use a home ultrasonic machine or jewelry cleaner. To maintain the
brilliance of opal, it should be wiped clean with a soft cloth.
Opal sources are Australia, Mexico and the U.S.
The tourmaline is a worthy alternative to the opal as the birthstone
for October. Spanning the spectrum from red to violet, toumaline can be found
in combinations of colors in
one stone which accounts for its popularity.
Not as fragile as opal, tourmaline is sometimes selected by those who prefer
faceted stones.
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November - Topaz
The birthstone for November, the Blue topaz is also the
traditional anniversary gemstone for the 4th year, while the Imperial topaz
is tradition for the
23rd year of marriage.
Topaz is traditionally thought of as a transparent golden yellow
gemstone. However, this variety of this gemstone ranges from colorless to orange-yellow,
red,
honey-brown (dark sherry), light green, blue and pink. Readily available and
insexpensive, the citrine is often used an alternative to topaz because it
appears in many of the same colors as topaz.
Derived from the Greek word meaning "to shine," the
word topaz
also implies "fire". The most valuable topaz are of the orange-red "Imperial" and
pink varieties.
The wonder and romance of topaz goes back many thousands of
years. Known to have the widest range of curative powers, the Greeks felt
it gave them strength.
Others believed the stone cooled tempers, restored sanity, cured asthma and
relieved insomnia. Topaz is said to make its wearer invisible in time of emergency
and even warded off sudden death.
It was said to help the wearer by changing color in the presence of poison.
Most brownish to sherry brown topaz are heated to produce a permanent pink
color as part of the normal fashioning process.
Certain types of topaz are irradiated and heated to produce shades of blue.
Topaz is found mainly in Brazil, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and China.
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December - Turquoise
The birthstone for December, turquoise is also the traditional
anniversary gemstone for the 11th year of marriage. Blue topaz has become a popular
alternative in recent years for those
who prefer faceted stones.
Turquoise range in color from sky blue (the most desirable) to blue green
and also apple green.
The name turquoise translates to "Turkish stone," because
the trade route that brought it
to Europe used to come via Turkey. Nowadays, the best qualities are found in
northeast Iran (Persian turquoise).
However, the world leader in production is now the United States southwest.
Turquoise was used as currency by the Southwest Indians during
the 16th century. They also believed the gemstone could bring animals to the
hunter, and offer happiness and good fortune to
all.
Today's turquoise is commonly stabilized with plastic to improve
its color and durability.
Large quantities of beautiful turquoise which have not been color enhanced
are also available.
Chalky varieties of turquoise are normally impregnated with oil or wax to enhance
color.
However, this color change may not be permanent.
Care should be taken to protect it from scratches, sharp blows,
hot water, and household chemicals. Do not use a home ultrasonic machine.
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Pearls
A cultured pearl is formed by placing an irratant in the oyster's
body.
Concentric layers of a crystalline substance called nacre are then deposited
around an irritant by the oyster.
Natural pearls are formed by deposits of nacre around an irritant
which accidentally lodges within the body of an oyster.
Anything resembling a pearl but has a surface created by a
manufacturing process is an imitation or simulated pearl - and must be
labeled as such.
A pearl's value comes from the crystalline nacre's unique ability
to absorb, refract and reflect light. This distinctive quality, known as "orient," is
only used to describe natural and cultured pearls. The term "orient" is
also used to describe the deep inner glow and shimmering iridescent characteristic
of sea-grown pearls. The deeper the luster and iridescence, the more precious
the pearl.
As it is more difficult for oysters to grow large pearls, they
are scarcer and more valuable.
However, two pearls of different sizes may be valued the same if the smaller
pearl is
superior in orient to the larger.
The value of a pearl is also dependent on its shape. The more
symmetrical the shape, the more
valuable. Examples of symmetrical pearls are: round, pear shape, tear shape
and oval.
The term "baroque" is used to describe pearls of irregular and asymmetrical
shape.
Pearls can be found in all shapes and sizes, from perfect spheres to long flat
angel wing pearls.
Another factor of a pearl's value is its surface perfection.
A perfect pearl appears satiny smooth on the surface.
However, when viewed closely, natural or cultured pearls may have irregular
surfaces which do not
detract from value, while disfiguring blemishes do.
When present blemishes are readily apparent to the naked eye without the need
for magnification.
Cultured pearls themselves are relatively rare, as they can
only be grown in limited areas of the
world's oceans and take years to grow.
Even harder to find are a perfect pair of pearls, because nature makes few
pearls exactly alike in orient,
size, shape and color.
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Types of pearls
Akoya - Grown in true pearl oysters off the coasts of Japan,
the Akoya is the most familiar type of cultured pearl.
Known for their beautiful orient and warm color, Akora pearls rarely grow more
than 9 mm in size.
Biwa - Found only in Japan's Lake Biwa, this is a fresh water
pearl cultivated in a mollusk. Smoother and more lustrous than fresh water
pearls from China.
Burmese - The Burmese are warmer in color tone than South Sea
cultured pearls. They are large cultured pearls (10 mm and larger) grown in
large oysters off the coasts of Burma.
Fresh Water - Also cultivated in mollusks, not oysters, these
are found in fresh water lakes and rivers. Fresh water pearls generally are
elongated in shape and have a milky translucent appearance. Their wide range
of interesting shapes and colors make them an excellent fashion accessory for
their relatively low value.
Keshi - Tiny pearls, some a little bigger than a grain of sand,
which form naturally in many cultured pearl oysters.
Mabe - Large hemispherical cultured pearls, the Mabe is grown
against the inside shells of oysters instead of within the body. Because of
their hemispherical shape, they are usually mounted in such jewelry as earrings,
rings and brooches. They are less expensive than regular round cultured pearls.
South Sea - Usually silvery in appearance, and sometimes not
as lustrous as fine Akoya pearls,
South Sea pearls are rare and costly.
Large cultured pearls (10 mm and larger) grown in large oysters off the coasts
of Australia.
Look for luster and orient in the shadow area of the pearl,
not in the area upon which the light is
shining when choosing cultured pearls. Also look for clear color tones, not
dull or muddy.
Cracks, chips or disfiguring blemishes also decrease the value of the pearl.
Particularly in regard to luster, orient and color, all
pearls in a strand should blend well together.
To determine if all pearls are strung through their exact center, roll a strand
of pearls along a flat surface.
All pearls should roll evenly without an uneven wobble.
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Selecting necklaces
Choose a cultured pearl necklace that accentuates your appearance
and
personality. Long necklaces are slinky and sexy. Short necklaces can
be demure or sophisticated while dog collars enhance a longer neck. Longer
strands slenderize and appear to elongate the neck. Roseate hued pearls are
most flattering for fair skinned
women. For darker skin tones, cream and gold color pearls are the best accessory.
Here is a guide to necklace lengths and terminology:
Choker - 15" to 16" in length. Should nestle
around the base of the neck.
Princess - 18" in length. Halfway between choker
and matinee length.
Matinee - 22" to 23" in length. Should fall
to the top of the cleavage.
Opera - 30" to 36" in length. Should fall to
the breastbone.
Sautoir or Rope - Any pearl necklace longer than opera length
Dog Collar - Multiple strands of pearls fitting closely around the neck.
Bib - Multiple strands of pearls, each shorter than the one
below,
nested together in one necklace.
Graduated - A necklace composed of pearls which taper downward
in size from large pearls in the center.
Uniform - A necklace which appears to be composed entirely
of pearls of the same size, though there generally is a slight difference in
size between the center and the end pearls for a more proportionate
look.
Let your expert jeweler customize your necklace so that its
proportions and color tones are exactly matched to yours.
Your cultured pearl wardrobe should consist of matching pearl
necklace, earrings and bracelet. Add to it with a ring, a variety of
clasps, brooches and a tiara or hairpiece. A long strand of cultured
pearls, with invisible clasps at several points along its length, is
very versatile. It can be shaped into many different styles, such as a
dog collar, a choker, or a bib.
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